Make an entrance awning

Is your front door protected from the elements? If not, follow our handyman's instructions on building a portico, on a shoestring

EQUIPMENT:

Spirit level
Tape measure and pencil
Electric drill with masonry and wood drill bits
Circular saw and jigsaw
Set square
Ladder
Ratchet spanner

SHOPPING LIST:

To keep costs down, we used pine instead of meranti, and fibreglass roof sheeting instead of meranti, and fibreglass roof sheeting instead of polycarbonate sheeting

• 2 lenghts of pine or meranti (2400 x 69 x 69mm) for the upright supports
• 5 lenghts of pine or meranti (1800 x 144 x 32mm) for the roof
• 4 lengths of transparent, corrugated fibreglass sheets (1800mm) for the roof - keep in mind that, when calculating the size of the roof cover and the number ot sheets needed, they must overlap by at least two corrugations
• 4 lenghts of pine or meranti (1800 x 69 x 32mm) for the top and bottom rails
• 6 lengths of pine or meranti (1800 x 44 x 22mm) for the railing
• roof nails with plastic end caps
• 50mm chipboard screws
• Rawl bolts with plastic wall plugs
• Angle brackets

GET STARTED

 

Beforehand : The first five steps apply only if your front door is situated on an elevated veranda with steps leading up to it. If your front door is flush with the ground, you need to dig two 400 x 400mm holes at the appropriate distance. Use a sand/stone/cement mixture to secure upright supports in the holes, and use a spirit level to make sure the poles are perfectly plumb. Allow the mixture to harden overnight and then proceed to step 6

 

1. The Structure : Using the set square, mark off the areas of the uprights to be cut away
2. Use the jigsaw to remove these sections
3. Place the ends of the posts (with the cutout sections) over the edges of the landing, using a spirit level to make sure they are perfectly straight. Then mark off the positions where holes are to be drilled
4. Using the electric drill with a wood bit, drill pilot holes into the upright. Then use a masonry bit to drill corresponding holes into the sides of the landing
5. Screw the uprights to the landing
6. Using one of the 1800 x 144 x 32mm lenghts of wood, mark the desired position above the door - it must be higher than the top of the uprights, so that the roof will slope at a proper angle
7. Using steel screws and plastic wall plugs, screw this to the wall above the door
8. You will need an extra pair of hands. At an angle, hold one of the 1800 x 144 x 32mm lenghts of wood alongside the beam that has just been screwed on, as well as against the top of the upright. Use the spirit level to rule off the wood. This piece will be sawn off to create the angle at which the roof will slope
9. Use the jigsaw to cut the angle. Rule off exactly the same angle on the second lenght of wood, and cut
10. Secure both pieces to the wood fixed onto the wall and the uprights, using chipboard screws Tip - Place the spirit level against the uprights to make sure everything is perfectly straight before tightening the screws
11. Again, measure the accurate length on one of the 1800 x 144 x 32mm strips, saw it and screw it to the front of the structure
12. Measure the accurate length on the last piece of wood, saw it and screw it to the middle of the structure. This strip will provide extra support and grip for the roof sheeting
13. Attach the roof sheeting: Place the roof sheeting in position and secure the sheets, one at a time, with the roof nails Important: First drill pilot holes into the sheets before knocking in the nails, otherwise the sheets may crack. Also, remember to allow the sheets to overlap by two corrugations to achieve a strong, waterproof roof
14. Build the rails: Using angle brackets, secure the bottom rails (1800 x 69 x 32mm, accurately cut to size) 200mm above the landing. Use the spirit level to make sure that they are perfectly level
15. Secure the top rails (1800 x 69 x 32mm, also cut to size) 900mm above the landing
16. Measure, and then cut, the 1800 x 44 x 22mm lengths to size, and space them evenly between the top and bottom rails. Secure the rafters at the top and bottom with screws
17. Varnish the structure with a high-quality varnish that is suitable for exterior use

home April 2005